Really good kitchen lighting designs characteristically use a great deal of lighting – and we’re not talking about putting a few extra roses on the ceiling Kitchen lighting requires all manner of different types of light to handle the requirements of many different zones. Just about the worst lighting solution for a kitchen is the use of bright fluorescent strip lights on the ceiling. Sure, they’re unquestionably very bright – but cold, flat and likely to induce a headache in less time than it takes to soft boil an egg.
Clearly, a major problem with central ceiling roses in a kitchen is that they create dark spots and you are always casting your own shadow onto worktops. A popular solution is to fit a number of halogen down lights in a pattern in the ceiling to produce uniform general light and install extra lighting specifically for worktops and hobs etc.
This solution works reasonably well, but does have its own downsides: halogen lamps operate at extremely high temperatures, don’t last very long, and are without rival as the most expensive means of lighting a kitchen. Some 90% of the cost of incandescent lighting (of which halogen is an extreme example) is the electricity they use.
This almost certainly accounts for the surge in popularity of low energy, low temperature LED kitchen lighting. With mains lighting (GU10 type fittings) it’s just a matter of replacing existing spotlights with their LED counterparts. For low voltage fittings (MR16 type), first replace regular 12v transformers with one (or possibly more, according to the number of lights) 12v constant voltage LED driver before switching to LED equivalent light bulbs.
When installing LED spotlights there are 3 main areas to bear in mind, these being: brightness (or luminosity); colour temperature (whether the light appears cool and blue or warm and yellow); and beam angle (tightly focused or widely dispersed). It’s a good idea to get as close as possible on these three areas to the qualities of the halogen lamps you’re replacing.
We are used to measuring brightness in terms of wattage, but an LED light bulb will have a wattage rating at least ten percent that of it’s equivalent incandescent or halogen bulb. Therefore, when replacing a 35w halogen lamp use an LED of 3w or above, and likewise replace a 50w with a 5w LED, etc.
Color temperature is used to measure how warm or cool a light seems. LED lights are available in a variety of white color temperatures (and also, colors) but since it has always been easier to manufacture blue LEDs, many cheap LEDs tend to have a cold/bluish tinge. Go for warm white (color temperatures below 3500K) for a reasonable approximation to the kind of white light normally associated with halogen lamps.
A narrow beam angle, say 45 degrees, makes any light appear tighter and more contained to a defined spot, whereas a much wider 120 degrees spreads the light out evenly, eliminating glare and “hot-spots”. Quite possibly the best LED spot light currently available that acts as a straightforward halogen replacement is the Sharp Zenigata.
One of the key factors to how any artificial light appears is not so much the light itself as the surface it shines on. To warm things up, point spot lighting at warmly colored areas (terracotta tiles, natural wood or simply a warmly painted wall). Alternatively, create dramatic effects by for example directing blue LEDs at fairly dark surfaces – blue LEDs reflected off blue, green, granite and steel can look stunning.
Mixing a variety of lights that offer different characteristics with a range of textures and colors makes it possible to obtain an extensive palette of effects for the various zones in your kitchen. LED strip lighting systems in particular offer all manner of options for accenting plinths, coving, worktops and pretty much anything else you could imagine. But at the end of the day though, once you’re done playing with all the new ideas on offer, try and settle on just a few designs that really appeal – it’s quite surprising how impressive even a bit of LED kitchen lighting appears.
